viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" width="20" height="20" aria-hidden="true"> Bio-ferment

CANDIDA BOMBICOLA / GLUCOSE / METHYL RAPESEEDATE FERMENT
Biotechnological ferment (sophorolipid biosurfactant)

CANDIDA BOMBICOLA / GLUCOSE / METHYL RAPESEEDATE FERMENT is obtained by fermentation of the yeast Candida bombicola with glucose and methyl ester of rapeseed acid (rapeseed oil derivative). Learn everything about its origin, effect, and the best application in your daily care routine here.

INCI: CANDIDA BOMBICOLA/GLUCOSE/METHYL RAPESEEDATE FERMENT  |  Also known as: Sophorolipid ferment, Candida bombicola ferment extract, biosurfactant from rapeseed oil fermentation, glycolipid surfactant
Substance Class Biotechnological ferment (sophorolipid biosurfactant)
INCI Name CANDIDA BOMBICOLA/GLUCOSE/METHYL RAPESEEDATE FERMENT
Origin Obtained by fermentation of the yeast Candida...
Quality EU Cosmetic Regulation compliant

viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" width="32" height="32" aria-hidden="true"> What is CANDIDA BOMBICOLA / GLUCOSE / METHYL RAPESEEDATE FERMENT?

This biotechnological ferment is created by cultivating the yeast Candida bombicola with glucose and methyl ester from rapeseed oil. The result is sophorolipids — natural glycolipids that are among the most efficient biological surfactants. While classic cleansing agents often contain synthetic sulfates that attack the skin barrier, sophorolipids offer a gentle alternative: they cleanse, have an antimicrobial effect against acne bacteria, and simultaneously improve the penetration of other active ingredients. In industrial biotechnology, sophorolipids are considered a prime example of green chemistry — they are biodegradable, obtained from renewable raw materials, and replace petrochemical surfactants.

viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" width="32" height="32" aria-hidden="true"> Where does CANDIDA BOMBICOLA / GLUCOSE / METHYL RAPESEEDATE FERMENT come from?

Obtained by fermentation of the yeast Candida bombicola with glucose and methyl ester of rapeseed acid (rapeseed oil derivative). The yeast produces sophorolipids — natural glycolipids that act as mild biosurfactants and antimicrobial active ingredients. In modern cosmetics, extraction and processing are subject to strict quality standards according to the EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. RAU Cosmetics only sources cosmetic-grade raw materials from certified suppliers.

viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" width="32" height="32" aria-hidden="true"> How does CANDIDA BOMBICOLA / GLUCOSE / METHYL RAPESEEDATE FERMENT work on a cellular level?

Sophorolipids from this ferment integrate into the cell membranes of microorganisms and disrupt their permeability, leading to an antimicrobial effect. Simultaneously, they lower the surface tension of the skin, improve wettability, and promote the penetration of other active ingredients. The mild surfactant properties enable gentle cleansing without irritation of the skin barrier.

viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" width="32" height="32" aria-hidden="true"> Dosage & Regulation

Typical use concentration: 0.1-1% in cleansing products, 0.5-2% in serums and leave-on products for antimicrobial effect

How it works on your skin

Antimicrobial Control

Sophorolipids destabilize the cell membranes of bacteria (especially Propionibacterium acnes) and fungi by embedding themselves in the lipid bilayer. This leads to increased membrane permeability and inhibits microbial growth. Particularly effective against acne bacteria without resistance formation as with antibiotics.

Gentle Surface Cleansing

As a biosurfactant, it lowers the surface tension between the skin and dirt particles, gently dissolving sebum, makeup, and impurities. In contrast to aggressive synthetic surfactants (SLS, SLES), the natural lipid barrier remains intact.

Penetration Enhancement

The amphiphilic properties of the sophorolipids increase the permeability of the horny layer (stratum corneum) by temporarily loosening the intercellular lipids. This improves the absorption of subsequent active ingredients by up to 40% without permanently weakening the barrier.

Anti-Inflammatory

Sophorolipids modulate the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α) in keratinocytes. This reduces redness and inflammatory reactions in blemish-prone skin and mild dermatitis. The effect is gentler than with classic antimicrobial active ingredients.

Sustainable Formulation

As a biotechnologically produced surfactant, it is fully biodegradable and more environmentally friendly than petrochemical alternatives. The fermentation takes place with renewable raw materials (rapeseed oil derivative, glucose), which significantly improves the CO₂ balance.

Who is it for?

Blemish-prone skin

The antimicrobial effect against Propionibacterium acnes reduces inflammation and prevents blemishes without damaging the skin barrier.

Oily skin

The mild surfactant properties regulate sebum and improve skin purity without drying out or stimulating sebum production.

Sensitive skin

As a natural biosurfactant, it is significantly more skin-tolerable than synthetic surfactants and does not irritate even sensitive skin.

Combination skin

Balances different skin needs through gentle cleansing in the T-zone without drying out dry areas.

In your routine

Morning cleansing

Use a cleansing gel or foam with this ferment to gently remove sebum and bacteria. Foam up 1-2 pumps with lukewarm water, massage in for 30 seconds, rinse thoroughly.

Evening cleansing

After removing makeup, cleanse again with a fermented cleanser to dissolve dirt, sweat, and remaining residues. The antimicrobial effect works overnight against acne bacteria.

Treatment serum

For blemish-prone skin, apply a serum with 1-2% sophorolipid ferment to cleansed skin. The penetration enhancement optimizes the effect of subsequent active ingredients such as niacinamide or retinoids.

Periodic mask

Use a cleansing mask with this ferment 1-2 times a week to dissolve deep-seated impurities and refine pores. Allow to work for 10-15 minutes.

Storage: Ferments are generally sensitive to extreme pH values (optimal: pH 4-7) and high temperatures (> 50°C). Store in a cool place protected from light. In aqueous formulations, a sufficient preservation system should be present, as ferments themselves can promote microbial contamination.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this ferment better than classic surfactants like SLS?

Yes, sophorolipid ferments are significantly gentler on the skin. While SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate) attacks the skin barrier and washes out lipids, sophorolipids cleanse through selective interaction with dirt particles without destroying the natural protective layer. Studies show significantly less transepidermal water loss (TEWL) with fermented surfactants. In addition, they are biodegradable and more environmentally friendly.

Can I use this ferment for rosacea or very sensitive skin?

Yes, but with caution. Sophorolipids are mild, but for highly sensitive skin or active rosacea flare-ups, you should first test on a small area of skin. The antimicrobial effect can even be helpful for Demodex-associated rosacea. However, use products with a lower concentration (< 0.5%) and avoid additional irritants (fragrances, alcohol) in the formulation.

Why is the yeast Candida bombicola used of all things?

Candida bombicola is the most efficient natural producer of sophorolipids — it can produce up to 400g of sophorolipids per liter of fermentation broth, significantly more than other microorganisms. The yeast uses sugar and fatty acids as nutrients and converts them into high-purity glycolipids. The fermentation process is also well scalable and cost-effective, which makes this biotechnological active ingredient industrially attractive.

Do bacteria develop resistance to this ferment like they do with antibiotics?

No, resistance formation is extremely unlikely. Antibiotics target specific bacterial metabolic pathways (e.g., cell wall synthesis), against which bacteria can develop defense mechanisms. Sophorolipids, on the other hand, act physically on the cell membrane — they mechanically destabilize the lipid structure, which cannot be bypassed by genetic mutation. This makes them a sustainable alternative in skin care.

Does this ferment really improve the effect of other active ingredients?

Yes, demonstrably. The surfactant properties of the sophorolipids temporarily loosen the intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum and thus increase permeability. Studies show a 30-40% improved penetration of active ingredients such as vitamin C, retinol, or peptides. Important: this happens without permanent barrier damage — the skin regenerates the lipid structure completely within 6-8 hours.

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