AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER
Synthetic Acrylate Copolymer
AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER is produced synthetically through copolymerization of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate and vinylpyrrolidone (VP). Learn everything about its origin, effect, and the best application in your daily skincare routine here.
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AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER is a new generation synthetic polymer that has revolutionized texture optimization in modern cosmetics. It combines the thickening properties of acrylate polymers with the film-forming qualities of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) — a component also known from pharmaceuticals (e.g., in tablet coatings). The special feature lies in the taurine component (acryloyldimethyltaurate): Taurine is a sulfur-containing amino acid that occurs naturally in the skin and is responsible for cell protection. In this polymer, it ensures electrostatic stability and water binding. Unlike classic thickeners such as xanthan gum or carbomer, it does not create sticky or heavy textures, but a silky, luxurious skin feel — which is why it is particularly popular in premium cosmetics.
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It is produced synthetically through the copolymerization of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate and vinylpyrrolidone (VP). This creates long-chain molecules that can form a three-dimensional network in aqueous systems. In modern cosmetics, extraction and processing are subject to strict quality standards according to EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. RAU Cosmetics exclusively sources cosmetic-grade raw materials from verified suppliers.
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The copolymer unfolds its effect through electrostatic interactions and hydrogen bonds with water molecules. The ammonium groups provide charge and stability, while the VP units are responsible for film formation. This results in a rheological behavior that gives formulations a creamy, non-sticky texture and simultaneously increases emulsion stability.
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How it works on your skin
Texture Optimization
The polymer forms a three-dimensional network in aqueous phases and transforms liquid formulations into creamy, easily spreadable textures. This creates a pseudoplastic flow behavior: the cream is firm-creamy at rest, but becomes thin-liquid when applied due to shear forces and can be easily spread. After application, the structure solidifies again, creating a long-lasting skin feel.
Emulsion Stabilization
Unlike classic emulsifiers, this copolymer stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions through rheological effects instead of interfacial properties. It increases the viscosity of the aqueous phase, prevents the creaming of oil droplets, and protects against phase separation — even with temperature fluctuations or mechanical stress.
Sensory Improvement
The VP component of the copolymer creates a silky, non-sticky film on the skin. In contrast to simple thickeners like xanthan gum or carbomers, it does not leave a sticky or heavy feeling, but a velvety, groomed skin finish. Particularly in combination with silicones, it creates a luxurious skin feel.
Moisture Retention
The hydrophilic polymer network can bind considerable amounts of water and hold it on the skin surface. The taurine component (acryloyldimethyltaurate) with its sulfonate group contributes to water binding and supports the skin barrier. This leads to a long-lasting moisture effect without an occlusive film.
Active Ingredient Carrier System
The copolymer can serve as a matrix for sensitive active ingredients and control their release. Due to the network structure, active ingredients are evenly distributed in the formulation and can be released specifically over time. Particularly useful for unstable active substances such as retinol or Vitamin C.
Who is it for?
Creates light, non-greasy textures that absorb quickly without clogging pores.
Stabilizes formulations with different active ingredients for the T-zone and dry areas.
Forms a protective film without needing irritating solvents or aggressive emulsifiers.
Optimizes the sensory texture and ensures a pleasant, silky skin feel.
In your routine
Morning Routine
In day creams and serums, the polymer ensures a light, fast-absorbing texture that is ideal as a make-up base. Apply a pea-sized amount to the face and neck — the formulation absorbs within 1-2 minutes.
Evening Routine
In night creams, it enables rich textures without a heavy skin feel. The stabilizing effect allows higher concentrations of nourishing oils that still remain non-occlusive and support nightly skin regeneration.
Combination with Actives
The polymer is compatible with most active ingredients and improves their stability. In formulations with retinol, niacinamide, or peptides, it ensures even distribution and controlled release — ideal for active ingredient serums with 2-5% active concentration.
Sun Protection Formulations
In sunscreens, it stabilizes UV filter dispersions and prevents the settling of inorganic filters such as zinc oxide. Ensures a light, non-whitening finish despite high SPF values.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do products with this polymer feel lighter than those with carbomer?
Carbomers (acrylate polymers) create a typical gel feeling with slight stickiness because they form strongly swollen networks. AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER, on the other hand, combines the thickening power of acrylates with the film-forming properties of vinylpyrrolidone (VP). The VP ensures a silky, non-sticky film — similar to hairspray polymers but without the stiffness. Additionally, this copolymer does not require neutralization with a pH lifter (unlike carbomers), which makes the formulation milder.
Can this ingredient clog pores or cause blemishes?
Due to its high molecular weight (100,000-500,000 Dalton), the polymer does not penetrate the skin or pores, but forms a film on the surface. It is non-comedogenic and is frequently used in products for oily and acne-prone skin, as it enables light, mattifying textures. Unlike heavy oils or waxes, it does not clog pores — on the contrary, it allows formulations with a high water content that let the skin breathe.
Why is this ingredient often included in 'primer' products for make-up?
The copolymer creates a smooth, silky finish on the skin and visually fills in fine lines — similar to silicones but water-soluble. The film-forming properties create an even surface on which make-up adheres better and lasts longer. In addition, the polymer prevents 'pilling' (rolling up) when foundation is applied because it forms a stable matrix that does not react with other products.
Is this substance biodegradable or harmful to the environment?
As a synthetic polymer, AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER is not easily biodegradable. However, it is water-soluble and therefore does not accumulate in aquatic organisms (unlike microplastics). The taurine component (acryloyldimethyltaurate) contains sulfur and nitrogen, which can in principle be metabolized by microorganisms, but complete degradation of the polymer takes a long time. It is currently classified as environmentally relevant but not acutely toxic.
Can I combine products with this polymer with Vitamin C or acids?
Yes, the copolymer is stable over a wide pH range (4-9) and therefore tolerates most acids (AHA, BHA, Vitamin C). Unlike carbomers, which precipitate at low pH, this polymer retains its thickening effect even in acidic formulations. In fact, it is often used in Vitamin C serums (pH 3-4) and retinol products because it improves the stability of these sensitive active ingredients by minimizing oxygen contact.
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