viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" width="20" height="20" aria-hidden="true"> Anti-Aging Peptide

ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-5
Synthetic Hexapeptide (6 amino acids)

ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-5 is produced by chemical peptide synthesis, in which six amino acids are linked in a defined sequence. Learn everything about its origin, effect, and the best application in your daily care routine.

Also known as: Acetyl Hexapeptide-5, N-Acetyl Hexapeptide-5, Acetyl-Hexapeptide-5, 6-amino acid peptide (acetylated)
Substance Class Synthetic Hexapeptide (6 amino acids)
INCI Name ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-5
Origin Produced by chemical peptide synthesis,...
Quality EU Cosmetics Regulation compliant

What is ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-5?

Acetyl Hexapeptide-5 is a synthetic signal peptide consisting of six amino acids that specifically stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis in the dermis. Unlike larger collagen molecules, which can only act on the skin surface, this small peptide (approx. 800-900 Da) penetrates the skin barrier and activates fibroblasts – the cells responsible for the production of structural proteins. The acetylation at the N-terminus protects the molecule from enzymatic degradation and simultaneously increases its ability to travel through the skin's lipid layers. The double action is particularly effective: it not only promotes the build-up of new extracellular matrix, but simultaneously inhibits matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which are responsible for collagen degradation. This makes it one of the most scientifically sound anti-aging active ingredients in modern skin care.

Where does ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-5 come from?

Produced by chemical peptide synthesis, in which six amino acids are linked in a defined sequence. Acetylation at the N-terminus increases the skin stability and penetration ability of the molecule. In modern cosmetics, extraction and processing are subject to strict quality standards in accordance with the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. RAU Cosmetics only sources cosmetic-quality raw materials from audited suppliers.

How does ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-5 work at the cellular level?

Acetyl Hexapeptide-5 acts as a signal peptide that stimulates collagen synthesis in fibroblasts. It activates specific receptors on the cell surface that stimulate the TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway, thereby upregulating the production of Type I and III collagen as well as elastin. Simultaneously, it inhibits matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which are responsible for the degradation of collagen, thus protecting the existing extracellular matrix from enzymatic breakdown.

Dosage & Regulation

Typical usage concentration: 0.5-2% in anti-aging serums, 0.2-1% in day creams and eye creams

How it works on your skin

Collagen Booster

Activates collagen synthesis via the TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway in dermal fibroblasts. Studies show an increase in Type I collagen production by up to 50% after 28 days of use. Simultaneously, Type III collagen synthesis is promoted, which is particularly important for skin elasticity as this collagen is responsible for the three-dimensional network structure of the dermis.

MMP Inhibitor

Reduces the activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-3, MMP-9), which are responsible for the enzymatic degradation of collagen and elastin. This double action – promoting build-up and inhibiting degradation – creates a synergistic anti-aging effect. This is particularly effective against UV-induced skin aging, as UV radiation strongly increases MMP expression.

Skin Density Improvement

Increases the density of the extracellular matrix through increased deposition of structural proteins. After 8-12 weeks of regular use, there is a measurable increase in skin thickness by an average of 8-12%, leading to a visibly firmer and more youthful skin structure. The improved matrix architecture also reflects light more evenly, contributing to a more even complexion.

Barrier Stabilization

Strengthens the skin barrier indirectly by improving the dermal structure, which serves as a mechanical foundation for the epidermis. A more stable dermis leads to more uniform epidermal differentiation and thus to a more functional lipid barrier. This reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by up to 15% after four weeks of use.

Wrinkle Reduction

Reduces fine lines and deeper wrinkles by filling the dermis from the inside out. Unlike topical fillers like hyaluronic acid, which temporarily bind water, this peptide causes a lasting change in skin structure. Clinical studies show a reduction in wrinkle depth by an average of 12-18% for crow's feet and nasolabial folds after 56 days.

Who is it for?

Mature skin

Specifically stimulates collagen and elastin production, which continuously decreases from the age of 25.

Sensitive skin

Works exclusively at the cellular level without irritation potential, as it has no surface-active properties.

Dry skin

Improves skin density and barrier function by strengthening the extracellular matrix, leading to better moisture retention.

Normal skin

Ideal preventive anti-aging ingredient that slows down natural collagen degradation before visible signs appear.

In your routine

Morning after Cleansing

Apply 2-3 drops of serum with Acetyl Hexapeptide-5 to the still slightly damp face. Ideally, the concentration should be at least 1% for optimal effectiveness. Use before applying antioxidants like Vitamin C, as peptides penetrate best on cleansed skin.

Evening before Night Care

Apply peptide serum after the retinol step (if used), as peptides are most stable in a slightly acidic to neutral pH range (pH 5-7). Seal with a rich night cream to support penetration. Allow to absorb for at least 2-3 minutes before applying further products.

Combination with other Active Ingredients

Optimally combinable with hyaluronic acid (enhances moisture effect), niacinamide (synergistic barrier strengthening), and Vitamin C (additive collagen synthesis). Wait 10 minutes after acid peels (AHA/BHA) for the pH level to neutralize before applying the peptide.

Long-term Use

Apply continuously for at least 8-12 weeks for visible results, as new collagen formation takes time. After 3 months, the frequency can be reduced to 5x weekly to maintain the effect. If paused, the skin returns to its initial state after approx. 4-6 weeks, so permanent use is recommended.

Storage: Stable at room temperature, but refrigerator storage extends shelf life. Prefer airtight packaging (airless dispensers, ampoules) as oxidation reduces effectiveness. Use within 6 months after opening. UV light can damage the peptide structure, so store in opaque containers.

Frequently Asked Questions

How does Acetyl Hexapeptide-5 differ from Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline)?

While Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) as a neuromuscular peptide inhibits muscle contraction and thus reduces expression lines, Acetyl Hexapeptide-5 acts directly on collagen synthesis in fibroblasts. The two peptides have completely different amino acid sequences and mechanisms of action, which is why they can be combined excellently: Argireline for expression lines, Hexapeptide-5 for structural skin aging. In combination, they address two different aging processes simultaneously.

Can Acetyl Hexapeptide-5 be combined with retinol?

Yes, the combination is not only possible but even synergistic. Retinol also stimulates collagen synthesis, albeit via a different mechanism (retinoic acid receptors), while Acetyl Hexapeptide-5 acts via the TGF-β signaling pathway. The correct order is important: first apply retinol to cleansed skin, wait 15-20 minutes (so that the low pH of the retinol can work), then follow with the peptide serum. For sensitive skin, use both active ingredients alternately (retinol in the evening, peptide in the morning).

From what age does the use of Acetyl Hexapeptide-5 make sense?

The body's own collagen production begins to decrease by about 1% per year as early as the mid-20s. Preventive use is sensible from 25-28 years, especially for people with a lot of sun exposure or a family predisposition to early skin aging. At this age, the peptide can slow down natural collagen degradation. From 35-40 years, when the first wrinkles become visible, it serves active wrinkle reduction. There is no upper limit – even mature skin from 60+ benefits, as fibroblasts can continue to respond to signal peptides.

Why is acetylation at the N-terminus important?

The acetyl group at the N-terminus (beginning of the peptide chain) protects the molecule from enzymatic degradation by aminopeptidases that naturally occur on the skin. Without acetylation, the peptide would already be degraded in the topmost skin layers before it could reach the dermis. Additionally, acetylation increases the lipophilicity (fat solubility) of the molecule, allowing it to better penetrate the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum. This makes the difference between an ineffective and a highly effective peptide.

Can Acetyl Hexapeptide-5 trigger allergic reactions?

The allergenic potential of synthetic hexapeptides is extremely low, as they are too small to be recognized as complete antigens (molecular weight under 1000 Da). Unlike proteins like collagen (very large, often of animal origin), hexapeptides consist of only 6 amino acids and do not trigger an immune response. Allergies to the auxiliary substances in the formulation (preservatives, fragrances) are more likely than to the peptide itself. If a peptide allergy is known, a patch test should still be performed.

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